Exterior Electric Outlet |
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Adding an exterior electric outlet to your house is a great addition. While local building code may only require one outlet, it is convenient to have several in order to plug in your weed trimmer, radio or other appliances. GFCI’s (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) are required in many locations, particularly where water and electricity may meet. The NEC (National Electrical Code) requires GFCI’s in kitchens, bathrooms, garages and outdoor locations. |
Items needed:
Screw driver
Wire strippers Electric drill and bits Reciprocating saw or keyhole saw Hammer Utility knife Electric box Electric cable/wire Weather proof outlet cover plate Accessory, vinyl outlet trim GFCI outlet receptacle Wire nuts Wire staples |
Safety Suggestions and Tips
Be sure power is off
Use sharp utility knife Run on separate circuit, if possible Comply with local electrical codes |
Level of difficulty
Time Required: 4 hour
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Steps |
Step 1: The first step is to locate a place which you can access both from exterior and interior. Be sure to choose a location high enough above the ground or deck which will not be buried by snow and away from blowing rains. GFCI outlets are available in 15 and 20-amp. It's wise to to use 20-amp to allow you to plug in power tools. Don't be cheap, get a good one, like the locking model from Leviton. |
Step 2: With vinyl siding, you will need to unlock the tabs and lift the siding. |
Step 3: With the edges of the cutout traced on the vinyl siding, score the siding. Continue to cut through with utility knife. |
Step 4: You can use snips to trim excess to fit the vinyl trim piece. Leave at least a 1/8" gap to allow for expansion as the outer ring will cover this. |
Step 5: To install the electrical box, check to see if the cover plate is for horizontal or vertical placement. |
Step 6: You need to drill corner pilot holes. |
Step 7: Cut through the sheathing with a reciprocating saw or keyhole saw. |
Step 8: Make the opening large enough to allow the box to come through. |
Step 9: The box will need to be mounted securely, preferably using screws. The box should protrude and be flush with the exterior sheathing. |
Step 10: Bring power to the box by running cable from the outlet back to the breaker box. Click here if you need help understanding circuit diagrams. While 15 Amp service might pass code, you are probably better off going with 12 gage wire and using 20 Amp GFCI. It may cost a few dollars more, but will allow you to more safely use power tools from the outlet. |
Step 11: You'll need to drill through sill plates using 5/8" speed bit drill. In this how-to, we have chosen to use armored or BX rather than Romex cable and metal boxes for a good secure weathertight fit. If you use BX cable, don't forget the anti-short or insulated bushing. If you have part of the cable exposed to sunlight (such as below the siding along the foundation), make sure that you use UF/sunlight rated cable. You may also need to use conduit. Check with your building codes as standard two wire may not be enough and three wire may be needed. |
Step 12: To attach outlet, it is a good idea to coat the wires to an anti-oxiding coating. This will help years down the road from excessive oxidation forming and causing a break in the connection. |
Step 13: You want to attach the hot lead and neutral |
Step 14: Also, the ground wire. Place in box and attached cover plate. To tie into breaker box, we recommend you seek a licensed electrician. |